苏格拉底说，未加审视的人生不值得过。
所以，我时常回望那些过往，那些生与死的边缘。过往是无常，看见世界的无常，也就照见自己的因果，那些已经发生和正在发生的，还有将来那些无可避免发生的，皆是无常。
Socrates once said, “An unexamined life is not worth living.” So, I often reflect on the past, on the edge of life and death. The impermanence of the world reveals our own karma, the inevitability of past, present, and future events. From Mt. Siguniang to Kailas, impermanence is ever-present.
加措活佛说，我们要学会与无常共处。
Jiacuo Living Buddha said, "We must learn to coexist with impermanence."
川西，红军当年爬雪山的邛崃山脉，而我，此时此刻竟置身其中。
我寄愁心与明月，随君直到夜郎西。
In western Sichuan, the Qionglai Mountains, where the Red Army used to climb snow capped mountains, I am now immersed in them.
I send my sorrowful heart and the bright moon, following you until the west of Yelang.
海拔4900的四姑娘山大峰垭口，稍作休整准备最后的冲顶。
Take a break and prepare for the final summit at the peak of Mount Siguniang at an altitude of 4900.
顶峰Z字型护栏被积雪覆盖，有的地方反复融化成薄冰，五月份雪还很厚，要小心谨慎。据说二峰清明节挂掉二个，向导上升为1:1
The Z-shaped guardrail at the peak is covered with snow, and some areas repeatedly melt into thin ice. The snow is still thick in May, so be careful. It is said that during the Qingming Festival of the Two Peaks, two were lost, and the guide rose to 1:1
2023年5月10日6点53分，成功登顶海拔5025四姑娘山大峰，扎西德勒！
On May 10, 2023 at 6:53 am, I successfully climbed the peak of Mount Siguniang at an altitude of 5025, Zhasidle!
天朗气清，高处不胜寒。风大，体感零下20度，羽绒服必须的。暖宝宝塞到手套和鞋子里是非常明智之举。
The sky is clear and clear, and high places are unbeatable with cold. Strong wind, minus 20 degrees Celsius body feel, necessary for down jackets. Putting warm patches into gloves and shoes is a very wise move.
顶峰陡峭，小心下撤，我尝试了二次屁降，非常危险，手抓护栏都很累，改侧身慢下。2019年大峰山难就是冲出护栏所致，一定要坚持谨慎小心下撤到垭口，这段路深深体会什么叫上山容易下山难。
The peak is steep, so be careful when descending. I tried a second fart descent, which was very dangerous. It was tiring to grab the guardrail, so I turned to the side and slowed down. The difficulty in Dafeng Mountain in 2019 was caused by rushing out of the guardrail. We must adhere to caution and carefully retreat to the pass. This section of the road deeply understands what it means to be easy to climb up the mountain but difficult to descend.
我和另一位小伙子全程徒步28公里返回山门，没有选择骑马是尽量不去借助外力，也是对自己体能极限的一次考验。
读万卷书弗如行万里路。在成都休整一天后，我又全程徒步海拔3079的峨眉山，这里就不赘述了，峨眉山之行有闲情整理出来单发。
5000是终点么？也许可以止步于此。然而，高海拔那种窒息的感觉又一次攫住了我，那种置之死地而后生的感觉。
夫天地者，万物之逆旅也；光阴者，百代之过客也。而浮生若梦，为欢几何？
The other young man and I hiked 28 kilometers back to the mountain gate. We didn't choose to ride horses as we tried our best not to rely on external forces, which was also a test of our physical limits.
Reading ten thousand books is like traveling ten thousand miles. After resting in Chengdu for a day, I hiked the entire journey to Mount Emei at an altitude of 3079. I won't go into detail here, but I have compiled a list of leisure activities during my trip to Mount Emei.
Is 5000 the finish line? Perhaps we can stop here. However, the suffocating feeling at high altitude once again captured me, the feeling of being trapped in death and reborn.
The journey of heaven and earth is the journey of all things; Time is the passing traveler of a hundred generations. And fleeting like a dream, how much joy does it bring?
准备去阿里，神山冈仁波齐。出发前先办好边防证。毕竟人往高处走，但并非漫无目的好高骛远，在5千和6千之间，冈仁波齐转山是最佳选择。一个人总要去一次西藏，而去一次真正意义的西藏，就不得不去阿里，天上阿里，冈仁波齐之于佛教，犹如圣地麦加之于伊斯兰教。
Prepare to go to Ali, Kailas. Before departure, obtain a border clearance certificate. After all, people tend to climb higher, but they are not aimless and aim too high. Between 5000 and 6000, Kailas is best choice is to turn the mountain around. A person always goes to Xizang once, but once he goes to Xizang in the real sense, he has to go to Ali. Ali in heaven, and Kailas are to Buddhism what Mecca is to Islam.
又一次出疆，非常清楚此去意味着什么，今年是COVID-19开放第一年，又是暑假，提前半个月的硬座都不好抢，还好，抢了个8号的兰州转车，无眠夜就此拉开序幕
Once again leaving Xinjiang, I am very clear about what it means to go here. This year is the first year of COVID-19 opening up, and it is also summer vacation. It is not easy to grab a hard seat half a month in advance. Fortunately, I grabbed a transfer from Lanzhou on the 8th, and the Sleepless Night kicked off
在兰州青年旅舍睡了4小时，又准备启程，超市的兰州妹子说得很对，附近的牛肉面不好吃，还不如旁边的杭州小笼包子，听人劝吃饱饭，实惠是硬道理。
After sleeping for 4 hours in the Lanzhou Youth Hostel and preparing to leave, the Lanzhou sister in the supermarket was quite right. The beef noodles nearby were not as delicious as the Hangzhou steamed buns nearby. After being advised to eat well, the principle of being affordable was absolute.
到达西宁换乘有氧列车，一路血氧93
Arrive in Xining and transfer to an aerobic train, with blood oxygen levels of 93 on the way
青海湖，中国最大咸水湖。这是最近距离的一张，免门票版
Qinghai Lake is the largest saltwater lake in China. This is the closest one, the free ticket version
有点小雨，路过玉珠峰主峰，万山之宗，龙脉之祖。扎西德勒！
A little drizzle, passing by the main peak of Yuzhu Peak, the ancestor of all mountains and the ancestor of dragon veins. Zazidler!
快到拉萨了，雪域高原，身临其境，幸甚至哉
I'm almost in Lhasa, on the snowy plateau, and I'm really lucky to be there
到达拉萨，坐13路到布达拉宫，高反和地域也有关系，在这里居然比四姑娘山感觉还累，海拔3600，慢慢适应不要剧烈运动
Arriving in Lhasa, take the 13th bus to the Potala Palace. The altitude is also related to the region, but it feels even more tiring here than Mount Siguniang. The altitude is 3600, so gradually adapt and avoid strenuous exercise
哲蚌寺附近订了一晚驴友之家，老板人挺好，饮料泡面都是亲民价格。
I booked a hiking enthusiast's home near Zhebang Temple for a night, and the owner is quite nice. The drinks and instant noodles are all affordable.
附近的甜茶也挺好喝，6元一壶
The sweet tea nearby is also quite delicious, priced at 6 yuan per pot
8点多坐上拉萨到日喀则的动车，票价64元，大概2个多小时到日喀则
Take the high-speed train from Lhasa to Shigatse at around 8 o'clock, with a ticket price of 64 yuan. It takes about 2 hours to get to Shigatse
杨师傅的名片，日喀则到神山的大巴车，票价497元，12点日喀则出发，回程也可联系杨师傅订车
Mr. Yang's business card is a bus from Shigatse to Kailas, priced at 497 yuan. It departs from Shigatse at 12 o'clock, and you can also contact Mr. Yang to book a bus for the return journey
318国道风光
318 National Highway Scenery
拉孜，海拔4000
Lazi, altitude 4000
又上来一波乘客，行李捆绑在车上
Another wave of passengers came up with luggage tied to the bus
219国道，卡嘎镇，海拔4300
219 National Highway, Kaga Town, altitude 4300
到达神山脚下，普兰县巴嘎乡
Arriving at the foot of Kailas, Baga Township, Pulan County
这里是世界中心--冈仁波齐
This is the world center - Kailas
在驴友之家休整，海拔4700，睡2小时，血氧80，半夜3点出发了，根据状态看能否一天转完
Resting at the hiker's home at an altitude of 4700, sleeping for 2 hours, with a blood oxygen level of 80, departing at 3 am in the middle of the night. Depending on the condition, it is possible to complete the transfer in a day
在曲古寺喝了两杯甜茶，补了门票
I drank two cups of sweet tea at Qugu Temple and paid for my ticket
漫漫转山路
A long winding mountain road
那些过往的人群，和不知名的鸟儿
Those past crowds and unknown birds
牦牛
Yak
马匹
horse
到达芝热寺。给喂了一块压缩饼干，土拨鼠们就来抱大腿
Arrive at Zhire Temple. After feeding a compressed biscuit, the groundhogs came to hug my leg
天葬台观冈仁波齐
Gazing at Kailas from the Heavenly Burial Platform
卓玛拉垭口前的山路有点陡峭
The mountain road in front of Zhuomala Pass is a bit steep
到达卓玛拉垭口山脚已是下午6点多，快下雨了，我已无退路可选，必须天黑之前翻过垭口到达不动地钉补给点。这不知名的鸟儿来吃我的压缩饼干了，有这些生灵的陪伴，并不孤单
I arrived at the foot of the Zhuomala Pass after 6 pm, and it was about to rain. I had no choice but to cross the pass before dark to reach the fixed ground nail supply point. This unknown bird has come to eat my compressed biscuits. With the companionship of these creatures, I am not alone
快到最高点了，血氧80，垭口上面的经幡和玛尼堆密密麻麻好像迷宫一样，幸运的是有三三两两转山的人群指引我前路
It's almost reaching its peak, with a blood oxygen level of 80. The prayer flags and mani piles above the pass are densely packed like a maze. Fortunately, there are crowds of people turning the mountain in twos and threes guiding me on the way
到达海拔5650卓玛拉垭口。一路雨转雪，袖子湿透了，一手拿登山杖，一手拿手机定位，雨披不方便，不如藏族同胞带的雨伞，既可当拐杖又可挡雨
Reaching the Zhuomala Pass at an altitude of 5650. The rain turned to snow all the way, and my sleeves were soaked through. I held a hiking cane in one hand and a mobile phone for location tracking in the other. The raincoat was inconvenient, so it was not as convenient as an umbrella carried by my Tibetan compatriots, which could serve as both a cane and shelter from the rain
慈悲湖。据说湖中清洗身体可洗去一生罪孽，此时此刻我只想快点下山，雪下不停，脚下的碎石路，还有融化的雪水要淌着过去……
Mercy Lake. It is said that washing one's body in the lake can wash away a lifetime of sins. At this moment, I just want to hurry down the mountain. The snow keeps falling, and the gravel road under my feet, as well as the melting snow water, need to flow over
翻过垭口经历乱石坡不断纠正定位，快到山脚有幸遇到一位喇嘛在途中带路，终于到达不动地钉补给点，十元泡面是最温暖的，多加了二壶开水，差点我就失温了，血氧只有70，赶紧的衣服在火炉边晃着烤了半个多小时，手机顺便也充了电。
I climbed over the pass and experienced a chaotic rocky slope, constantly correcting my positioning. As I approached the foot of the mountain, I was fortunate enough to meet a lama who was leading the way. Finally, I arrived at the fixed nail supply point. Ten yuan instant noodles were the warmest, with two extra pots of boiling water added. I almost lost my temperature, and my blood oxygen was only 70. I quickly baked my clothes by the fire for more than half an hour, and my phone was also charged.
海拔5200辗转反侧睡了2小时，起床血氧前所未有的低，吃了抗高反药，逼着自己起来走路，预订了中午3点回日喀则的车
After tossing and turning at an altitude of 5200, I slept for 2 hours and woke up with an unprecedented low blood oxygen level. I took anti hypertensive drugs and forced myself to get up and walk. I booked a bus to return to Shigatse at 3 noon
日照金山
Snow Mountain of Sunrise
溪流，走起来，血氧渐渐恢复到80
Stream, walking, blood oxygen gradually returns to 80
又见土拨鼠
See the groundhog again
天上阿里，冈仁波齐，人间美景不过如此
Ali in the sky, Kailas, the beauty of the human world is nothing but this
玛尼堆
Mani pile
最后5公里悬崖路段，一个小上坡
Last 5 kilometers of cliff section, a small uphill
快到终点了，路上有磕长头的藏族姑娘，她们满怀信仰非常虔诚，我没有拍摄照片和视频，总之是出于一种尊重吧，我路过她们身边会致以扎西德勒，她们也会很礼貌地回敬我，还有一位藏族小孩， 在芝热寺我背靠石头休息的时候，他们一家路过我，扎西德勒，长命百岁，这是他们对我最真诚地问候，谢谢，扎西德勒！
As we neared the finish line, there were Tibetan girls kowtowing their heads on the road. They were full of faith and were very devout. I didn't take any photos or videos, but it was out of respect. When I passed by them, I would greet them with Zazidler, and they would politely respond to me. There was also a Tibetan child who, while I was resting against a stone at Zhire Temple, passed by me with his family. Zazidler, who lives a hundred years, is their most sincere greeting to me. Thank you, Zazidler!
下午16:58分回到起点，转山圆满，扎西德勒！
未能按计划赶上15号中午15点返回日喀则的大巴车，感谢杨师傅协调，安排了16号中午的车。
At 16:58 in the afternoon, I returned to the starting point and successfully turned the mountain, Zazidele!
I was unable to catch the bus that returned to Shigatse at 3:00 pm on the 15th as planned. Thank you to Mr. Yang for coordinating and arranging the bus for noon on the 16th.
后记：整理这篇文章是在回乌鲁木齐第五天，前几天一直很疲惫，西藏之行十三天，几乎没睡一个安稳觉。所以回来的前几天每天都在补充睡眠。直到今天终于感觉恢复了一些体能，去登了雅山，咳嗽也基本好了。我很幸运，咳嗽的感觉其实在翻垭口的那一夜就已经有端倪了，只是一直到拉萨才开始发作，一直担心肺水肿，所幸一切都很顺利，在计划时间内返回低海拔地区。
Postscript: I sorted out this article on the fifth day of my return to Urumqi. I was very tired a few days ago, and I hardly slept soundly during my 13 day trip to Xizang. So I spent the first few days back replenishing my sleep every day. Until today, I finally felt that I had regained some physical strength and went to climb Mount Ya. My cough has basically improved. I am very lucky. The feeling of coughing actually began on the night when I flipped over the mountain pass, but it didn't start until Lhasa. I have been worried about pulmonary edema, but fortunately everything went smoothly and I returned to the low altitude area within the planned time.
感谢在拉萨住过的青年旅舍，环境很好，老板娘是个会生活，简单而不平庸的人。
感谢在路上遇到的同路人，那些曾经擦肩而过，一面之缘的人们，一念即是永恒。扎西德勒！
Thank you for staying in the youth hostel in Lhasa. The environment is very good, and the hostess is someone who knows how to live, simple yet not mediocre.
Thank you to the fellow travelers you met on the road, those who once passed by and had a chance encounter. One thought is eternal. Zazidler!
